Frequently Asked Questions

Epoxy flooring pricing varies depending on: Square footage, condition of the concrete, type of system selected, and any add-ons such as decorative options, stem walls or cove base. The best way to determine pricing is through a free on-site estimate. We provide honest recommendations and transparent pricing — no high-pressure sales tactics.

Yes. We repair cracks and properly prepare damaged slabs before installing the coating system.

We offer slip-resistant textures that improve traction while maintaining a clean appearance. If the floor is wet, it will be as slippery as any other wet floor in your space such as tile, wood or laminate.

When properly installed and maintained, professional epoxy flooring can last 15+ years. The lifespan depends on: the pre-existing substrate, surface preparation, product quality, traffic levels and maintenance. Because we use industrial-grade materials — not hardware store kits — our systems are built for longevity.

We use epoxy, polyaspartics, polyureas and urethanes for concrete coatings. They are also usually combined with pigments, vinyl flake, quartz, sand or aluminum oxide. For overlays of outdoor concrete substrates (patios, sidewalks, etc.), we use polymer modified cementitious overlay products, pigments, stains and sealers. The type of installation dictates what products are used for that specific floor and we always welcome any questions about the products used.

All floors are diamond grinded before installation to ensure a proper bond between the concrete substrate and materials applied to it. We also apply a moisture vapor barrier to every floor.

You can typically walk on your new epoxy floor after 24 hours. For the best results, wait 72 hours before parking vehicles or moving extra heavy items on the surface. Full cure is usually reached in 5–7 days, depending on the product used and temperature.

For everyday cleaning of loose dirt and debris, simply sweep the floor with a soft bristle broom or use a shop vac with a soft brush attachment. You can mop the floor with a mix of ammonia and hot water (half cup of ammonia to 1 gallon of hot water). Simple Green with water is also acceptable for mopping heavily soiled floors (half cup of Simple Green to 1 gallon of hot water). Clean spills, especially chemicals, immediately. Windex also works well as a spot cleaner (1 part Windex to 3 parts water). The ratios of mixing solutions for cleaning are important so that a film or haziness is not left on the floor.

You may have heard that polyurea is "4× stronger than epoxy." That claim is largely a marketing slogan used as a sales tactic, but not a direct comparison of installed garage floor systems. It usually comes from comparing a single laboratory property—such as tensile strength or elongation—of one polyurea formulation to one epoxy formulation. Those numbers don't measure how well a coating bonds to concrete or how long it lasts in a real garage. In fact, high-quality epoxy base coats often achieve equal or better adhesion to properly prepared concrete, which is one of the most important factors in long-term performance. A professionally installed epoxy system with a quality polyaspartic topcoat can provide decades of durability, making the "4× stronger" claim misleading for real-world garage floors. In addition, all professional coating companies have access to epoxy, polyurea and polyaspartic coatings. Pros use specific coatings in specific circumstances for a reason, so don't be deterred by false claims.